SAN AGUST脥N ETLA, M茅xico (AP) 鈥 Daniel D谩vila knew he would become a devil at age 12.
He prepares his costume weeks ahead of in San Agust铆n Etla, in southwest Mexico, where families take to the streets on Nov. 1 to remember how death can be as .
In the state of Oaxaca, where the 33-year-old lives, 鈥渕uerteadas鈥 are part of a festival that stretches for several nights and locals regard as part of their identity. Each celebration differs from one town to another, but most take off at the main church, where participants and musicians sing to honor their local saints. Afterward, volunteers like D谩vila take part in a theatrical representation in which a spiritist, one special character with supernatural capabilities, brings a dead man back to life.
D谩vila鈥檚 role, the devil, is a playful character who tries to lure the resuscitated man into following him. Among other characters are a priest, a doctor and an old man whose daughter is married to the deceased.
鈥淚鈥檝e participated in muerteadas since kindergarten,鈥 D谩vila said, hands on the devil suit he crafted with dozens of sleigh bells sewed to the cloth. 鈥淚 love it because it鈥檚 an inherited tradition.鈥
The staging of muerteadas is humorous for participants and spectators alike. All characters speak in verses and dialogues are full of the communities鈥 gossip and political satire. Though there's a script to guide the actors, improvisation is expected.
Once the acting ends, to cheer that life prevailed, the night goes on with a procession led by a band. People dance, drink mezcal and visit neighbors' homes until the celebration on the following day.
鈥淚t鈥檚 a very special time because muerteadas are not just dances and drinking,鈥 D谩vila said. 鈥淚t鈥檚 a time for sharing what provides us with joy.鈥
The most ancient muerteadas were processions led by entire families wearing jaguar masks, said V铆ctor Cata, the local secretary of culture.
In the pre-Hispanic times, people feared that the sun would not rise and consequently life would end. According to this belief, women would turn into monsters and devour humans, so people hid under their masks and held vigils.
鈥淪an Agust铆n Etla has Zapotec origins,鈥 Cata said. 鈥淏ut like any living culture, the ways of honoring death change and now we can see a blissful celebration.鈥
Efra铆n Garc铆a, 57, lives in neighboring San Jos茅 Etla and during this year鈥檚 muerteadas he will dress as the spiritist. His costume is a cloak covered in 800 mirrors that took him a week to sew and weighs around 70 pounds.
鈥淲e celebrate this tradition because our dearly departed liked it,鈥 said Garc铆a, whose children craft costumes for others to buy. 鈥淲ithin the sadness, we carry on with happiness because we believe that their souls are with us on these days.鈥
Organizers start working on next year鈥檚 festivities as soon as the current one ends, said Horacio D谩vila, who is Daniel鈥檚 cousin. 鈥淎s early as December, we look for a music band that will suit our muerteadas.鈥
This event doesn鈥檛 come cheap, D谩vila said. Participants in certain towns pay a fee to play a character during the theatrical representation, while neighbors are expected to contribute to hiring the band. Devil and spiritist costumes can cost up to 800 U.S. dollars.
It鈥檚 part of a tradition, though, D谩vila said, and for most locals it is the most awaited season.
鈥淪ome things hurt us Mexicans but then we handle it with laughter, with mockery,鈥 he said. 鈥淲hen I die, don鈥檛 cry for me, I tell people. Bring on the music and be glad that I鈥檓 resting.鈥
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Associated Press religion coverage receives support through the AP鈥檚 with The Conversation US, with funding from Lilly Endowment Inc. The AP is solely responsible for this content.
